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Overview Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2016/2017

Nostalgia for the Soviet past and the connection with the present.

There is a certain irony in the fact that Ulyana Sergeenko decided to devote a new collection to "a political thaw ", one of the most optimistic periods in Soviet history, served as an inspiration. On the other hand, it is quite understandable: fashion - is a form of escapism, and the desire to hide behind its facade - do not attempt to represent reality as it is.

The designer says that the new collection - a hymn to the Soviet people, to 1950s and 1960s, which was the time of their youth. Of course, it is unlikely Russian people could afford lame dresses, or a colored mink coat, painted with fancy scenery. But the overall mood of the era was clearly conveyed, in spite of the "Iron Curtain", the Soviet people begun to recognize the world on the other side of the borders - almost got rid of the oppressive mood of the Second World War, full of space exploration dreams and a new, young fashion. In the end, we should not forget how important the visit of Dior models to Moscow in 1959 was: for the Soviet Women they were living example of "how to".

The new collection of Ulyana Sergeenko is full of references - abound, direct and indirect. Here are allusions to the canonical image of the Soviet intellectual: Solid wool pantsuit, neat shoes on a flat course, a leather briefcase. Ulyana Sergeenko did not ignore other important theme of "a political thaw" - the development of the North and the Soviet Antarctic Expedition, which began just in 1955. A series of large knitted jumpers and fur coats are therefore devoted to that topic.. The collection involved some personal references: for example, the first outfit - an illustration of the image of the Soviet teacher, almost literally embodying the image of Ulyana’s mother.

The climax of the show was collection of evening dresses - perhaps Sergeenko’s specialty. Laconic models of lame and lurex fabrics became the reference of the nostalgic 1960s - a time when women wanted to dress up, not always having the possibility or really good taste. But no matter how difficult the political situation has been now and then, no one can ever take from us a simple desire - the desire for beauty.

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