Huge, consisting of more than 100 items, the collection Résonances de Cartier - it is quite a unique phenomenon in the modern world of fine jewelry.
Cartier jewelers combine the time-tested, specific to the jewelry house technology, techniques and forms with the current visual codes and trends.
Résonances de Cartier jewelery conceived as a complete history of Cartier, starting with the traditional turn of the XIX-XX centuries necklace in the "garland" style, with the base of Art Deco and bestselling following periods, repeatedly cited industry. However, the result was much more interesting, "working with archives», Cartier created one of the most important and innovative collections of fine jewelry format.
Jacqueline Karachi had the courage to develop each of the trends that have a particular brand (including Cartier) ever said in high jewellery collections - mixed color combinations, the combination of expensive and cheap materials, and one of the most interesting phenomena - use Street-style trends.
And this "street" fashion context, reinterpreted by high jewelry jewelers, creates an effect that is comparable to the famous "punk commando" of Vivienne Westwood: the result of the latter was not the legalization of punk in high fashion, and that girl like Stella Tennant with several aristocratic blue blood of generations came to ordinary fashion.
A mixture of styles that all have a little crammed on edge in clothing, comes into the jewelry world. And, because of the high cost of materials, comes gently.
Courage of Cartier jewelers in this collection proved itself in the ease in which they combine the time-tested and well-known characteristic of the jewelry house technology, techniques and forms with the current visual codes and trends. Recognizable at first glance quotes carved flowers and leaves Tutti-Frutti, color geometry of Art Deco or multiple "panther" did not look like repetition and copying itself, because it changed the main thing - the architecture of the product.
There are big and significant stones (which is one emerald cabochon cut 140 carats), accompanied by perfectly matched to that house gemologists probably collected more than one year. But at the same time the entire collection is remarkable is rethinking the idea of architecture jewelry.
Necklace-transformer, turns with a tiara, with outstanding cut cabochon emerald weighing 140.2 carats
And this architectural - the main and most important characteristic of Résonances de Cartier. It is much more important than even the encyclopedic and scope of the collection. Of course, the architecture inspire jewelers not the first day, but one thing - just push on the form, and quite another - to build a product fully to the canons of the genre.
For example, large gems of Résonances de Cartier are not the basis for a form decorations, but only part of it, perfectly inscribed in the overall design piece. Basic shape and the motion vector creates metal. The entire twentieth century jewelers who create high collection, competed to see how to remove the metal from the product or to make it as unobtrusive eye: invisible tack, "floating in the air stones" - the idea of openwork and "drops on the skin" was dominant. And then suddenly we see not just a metal base, and that it assigned the main role - that it creates a form, accents and sets the motion vector. Stones just follow this vector, being important, but at the same time is not a major part - of their size, cut, shape, location relative to each other are an extension of the general dynamics.
So, bracelet Twisting Light - this is more of an architectural form, inspired by the works of Wright and Zaha Hadid at the same time than the decoration of the two diamond triangular cutting and rock crystal (graceful homage to bracelets, made in 1930 for Gloria Swanson, found in many high-Cartier Collection ).
A ring with a long diamond emerald metal elements tack inscribed in the design itself, they create additional expressive effect, contrasting with baguette diamonds.
Carbonado ring - at a glance cocktail classics of the genre. However, large and high, it is closer to the buildings by Norman Foster, than to ornaments. Metal base in pavé diamond swirls, twists the space around the black and white diamonds, which are no more than decorative elements.
Each product of collection dynamics of ground and polished surfaces, transparency and haze of the stones, their size and shape ask your own pace and rhythm. And in conjunction with the architectural form and the "low" genres - such as jewelry, who came from a culture of "Instagrama" - all this makes an incredibly strong impression.